Monday, August 28, 2006
Before I started formal Arabic and before I even had a language helper, I began my language-learning process in the streets. We lived in a wonderful neighborhood between Maadi and Dar il Salaam and I learned to really enjoy Egyptian culture. The souk (market) was very balady (authentic) and shaaby (very high population density). (Speaking of this, I just noticed in the latest Lonely Planet that Egypt has the highest population density in the world- as determined by dividing the amount of habitable land by inhabitants per square kilometer). To be honest though, at first I thought we had made a mistake in coming here. In fact, many Egyptians would come up to me and ask me, "What are you thinking? You’re from America. All of us want to come to your country- what are you doing here? Go back home!" But I explained that most Americans have an image of the Middle East largely gleaned from the media- and largely inaccurate. I mean, even my parents and many of my friends were really afraid for our lives when we first moved here, and perceived us as moving into a terrorist hotbed!
Anyway, I learned a lot from that first phase of language learning. I sat in a lot of ahwas, smoking sheesha and drinking tea, sahlab, hommous, etc. My two-year-old son loved life in that neighborhood. He is a very active boy, and he would often go out with me. We enrolled him in a hadonna and he loved that as well... That’s another thing I love about Egypt. People here love children. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been in a restaurant and our son has been going wild, but just before I could get too stressed out about it, a waiter would pick him up or start playing with him. In fact, there have been times when I myself was so annoyed with him, I simply couldn’t believe it when I looked around and saw all the other customers in the restaurant smiling at him and actually encouraging him to play and make noise! This just wouldn’t fly in America! As an example, when we were in America last year this became quite a problem, and I began to dread going out to eat at a restaurant. We got so many cold looks from other people in any restaurant- it got pretty stressful. We soon contented ourselves to McDonalds and Taco Bell.
(Side Note: I can’t resist adding in a little side note here on McDonalds. All of the McDonalds restaurants here in Egypt are very clean and comfortable. In general, they are even cleaner and more comfortable than most McDonalds in the states. I often take my laptop to one that is nearby- they have a free wireless service! Over time, I have come to realize that only higher class people go to McDonalds here. In fact, having the money to go to McDonalds can be quite a status symbol. When I compare this to the low-class stigma often attached to the word "McDonalds" in the states, it strikes me as pretty funny...!)
Anyway, I learned a lot from that first phase of language learning. I sat in a lot of ahwas, smoking sheesha and drinking tea, sahlab, hommous, etc. My two-year-old son loved life in that neighborhood. He is a very active boy, and he would often go out with me. We enrolled him in a hadonna and he loved that as well... That’s another thing I love about Egypt. People here love children. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been in a restaurant and our son has been going wild, but just before I could get too stressed out about it, a waiter would pick him up or start playing with him. In fact, there have been times when I myself was so annoyed with him, I simply couldn’t believe it when I looked around and saw all the other customers in the restaurant smiling at him and actually encouraging him to play and make noise! This just wouldn’t fly in America! As an example, when we were in America last year this became quite a problem, and I began to dread going out to eat at a restaurant. We got so many cold looks from other people in any restaurant- it got pretty stressful. We soon contented ourselves to McDonalds and Taco Bell.
(Side Note: I can’t resist adding in a little side note here on McDonalds. All of the McDonalds restaurants here in Egypt are very clean and comfortable. In general, they are even cleaner and more comfortable than most McDonalds in the states. I often take my laptop to one that is nearby- they have a free wireless service! Over time, I have come to realize that only higher class people go to McDonalds here. In fact, having the money to go to McDonalds can be quite a status symbol. When I compare this to the low-class stigma often attached to the word "McDonalds" in the states, it strikes me as pretty funny...!)
Before I started formal Arabic and before I even had a language helper, I began my language-learning process in the streets. We lived in a wonderful neighborhood between Maadi and Dar il Salaam and I learned to really enjoy Egyptian culture. The souk (market) was very balady (authentic) and shaaby (very high population density). (Speaking of this, I just noticed in the latest Lonely Planet that Egypt has the highest population density in the world- as determined by dividing the amount of habitable land by inhabitants per square kilometer). To be honest though, at first I thought we had made a mistake in coming here. In fact, many Egyptians would come up to me and ask me, "What are you thinking? You’re from America. All of us want to come to your country- what are you doing here? Go back home!" But I explained that most Americans have an image of the Middle East largely gleaned from the media- and largely inaccurate. I mean, even my parents and many of my friends were really afraid for our lives when we first moved here, and perceived us as moving into a terrorist hotbed!
Anyway, I learned a lot from that first phase of language learning. I sat in a lot of ahwas, smoking sheesha and drinking tea, sahlab, hommous, etc. My two-year-old son loved life in that neighborhood. He is a very active boy, and he would often go out with me. We enrolled him in a hadonna and he loved that as well... That’s another thing I love about Egypt. People here love children. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been in a restaurant and our son has been going wild, but just before I could get too stressed out about it, a waiter would pick him up or start playing with him. In fact, there have been times when I myself was so annoyed with him, I simply couldn’t believe it when I looked around and saw all the other customers in the restaurant smiling at him and actually encouraging him to play and make noise! This just wouldn’t fly in America! As an example, when we were in America last year this became quite a problem, and I began to dread going out to eat at a restaurant. We got so many cold looks from other people in any restaurant- it got pretty stressful. We soon contented ourselves to McDonalds and Taco Bell.
(Side Note: I can’t resist adding in a little side note here on McDonalds. All of the McDonalds restaurants here in Egypt are very clean and comfortable. In general, they are even cleaner and more comfortable than most McDonalds in the states. I often take my laptop to one that is nearby- they have a free wireless service! Over time, I have come to realize that only higher class people go to McDonalds here. In fact, having the money to go to McDonalds can be quite a status symbol. When I compare this to the low-class stigma often attached to the word "McDonalds" in the states, it strikes me as pretty funny...!)
Anyway, I learned a lot from that first phase of language learning. I sat in a lot of ahwas, smoking sheesha and drinking tea, sahlab, hommous, etc. My two-year-old son loved life in that neighborhood. He is a very active boy, and he would often go out with me. We enrolled him in a hadonna and he loved that as well... That’s another thing I love about Egypt. People here love children. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been in a restaurant and our son has been going wild, but just before I could get too stressed out about it, a waiter would pick him up or start playing with him. In fact, there have been times when I myself was so annoyed with him, I simply couldn’t believe it when I looked around and saw all the other customers in the restaurant smiling at him and actually encouraging him to play and make noise! This just wouldn’t fly in America! As an example, when we were in America last year this became quite a problem, and I began to dread going out to eat at a restaurant. We got so many cold looks from other people in any restaurant- it got pretty stressful. We soon contented ourselves to McDonalds and Taco Bell.
(Side Note: I can’t resist adding in a little side note here on McDonalds. All of the McDonalds restaurants here in Egypt are very clean and comfortable. In general, they are even cleaner and more comfortable than most McDonalds in the states. I often take my laptop to one that is nearby- they have a free wireless service! Over time, I have come to realize that only higher class people go to McDonalds here. In fact, having the money to go to McDonalds can be quite a status symbol. When I compare this to the low-class stigma often attached to the word "McDonalds" in the states, it strikes me as pretty funny...!)
Monday, August 07, 2006
Besides getting a personal tutor or going to Kalimat, other options abound in Cairo. There are quite a few private tutors available, many very experienced. There are also several other language schools with the same price range as Kalimat, such as ILI, the Fajr Center, and AUC’s CACE (Center for Adult and Continuing Education) program, which is actually quite reasonable. If you want to go very intensive into FusHa for an academic year, you could enroll in Dar Camboni, located in Zamalek. Their program begins in the fall and lasts until the end of May. I’m not sure of the exact prices, but I know they are very reasonable.
Finally, even after living in Cairo for three years, I still find myself retreating into my apartment from time to time. Sometimes the craziness or the heat get a little too unbearable! During these times it’s good to have other resources to keep your Arabic going (assuming you’ve ran out of homework to do). Besides a few basic books (I found some good ones on Egyptian colloquial at Barnes and Noble in the states) and a dictionary (preferably one containing both Arabic-English and English-Arabic), I have found some Arabic learning software helpful as a way to supplement and reinforce my classroom and street learning. You can check some of this out at www.egyptianarabic.com and www.learn-arabic-now.com. And if all else fails, you can always watch Egyptian soap operas to freshen up on your colloquial- sometimes they even have English sub-titles!
Had I studied Arabic at a school in the states, I would have learned only Classical Arabic, and in a very artificial setting. I wanted to be able to speak, read, and feel Arabic- as much as humanly possible considering that I am basically a backwoods redneck hick from the heart of Georgia... So a couple of years ago, I moved my family here to Egypt. Of course, everyone said it was impractical. If I was studying Arabic for diplomatic purposes, then it would make perfect sense, but for the purpose of expanding my mind, exploring a new culture and language, and learning how to understand and dialogue with members of one of the largest religions on the earth? Where’s the money in that?
I’ll be the first to admit I’m an idealist, but honestly, I can think of few things more practical in our day and time. Current events in the Middle East demand a response from us isolated and introspective westerners. We simply can’t ignore this region any longer. We must engage- and seek to understand this fascinating culture and its people who have so much to offer. More often than not, violence and hatred are bred by ignorance and misinformation (perpetuated, unfortunately, by both eastern and western media outlets), but we no longer have this excuse. We have other options than CNN and al Jazeera. For one thing, there are a lot of blogs out there to read- like mine! Let’s stop sucking down the propaganda like its candy and try to find some answers ourselves. Sadly, there are precious few westerners who really take the time and effort to understand this region and its people. (There are some encouraging signs, however, as Arabic programs are multiplying in American institutions of higher learning. I read an article the other day highlighting this fact at http://www.fcnp.com/620/language2.htm This is one of the few positive results of 9/11).
The few public figures who have invested time and resources in this part of the world have seen some fantastic returns. Bill Gates comes to mind. As does former US president Jimmy Carter (from the great state of Georgia!). People here love Jimmy Carter, because he took an interest in this region and its people. Every time I mention his name to a taxi driver, I get an instant smile. Usually the response is, "He was the best president America has ever had!" Admittedly, Carter’s political persuasions help him in this respect, but the point is that he was engaged. He was very active in the peace process in the Middle East, and contributed personally to it. Remember Camp David? Finally, I do think most Egyptians respond more to his southern charm and hospitality than to his political beliefs. He’s a people person. As a southerner here, I can testify that my relational skills and as well as my ability to sit talking to people for hours on end have helped me immensely in Egypt.
Unlike many westerners I meet here, I have no interest in politics or diplomacy. While I think it’s necessary to understand these processes as much as possible, I don’t have much trust- or hope- in them. Far from it. I hate politics, and I would rather not sell my soul, thank you. (Don’t get me wrong- I know that politics for the most part are a necessary evil, and at least they preserve a modicum of illusory stability). Rather, the religion and culture have drawn me here. As I mentioned before, I studied Religion and Philosophy at my undergrad, Berry College. By the way, this is in northwest Georgia and happens to have the largest campus in the world. Check it out at http://www.berry.edu. My degree included a course on Islam, in which we read the Qu’ran and a couple of other books, but the class wasn’t even taught by a Muslim. The professor was actually Baha’i!
Honestly, I believe that living here among Muslims for a year or more is better than enrolling in any program in the states. Maybe it’s not as academic, or scholarly- I don’t care. I’m not after degrees or recognition. I want knowledge and understanding. I can figure out what to do with it later. A few weeks ago, I met a professor at Cairo University. In the course of our conversation, I told him my reasons for coming to Egypt: to learn about the religion and culture. "Well, don’t try to learn about Islam from the people," he warned. "You’re better off sticking to books." I disagree. Books are great as a resource. As are courses, software, etc. But in the end they are just tools. You have to get out there and meet people. Religion and culture don’t exist in a vacuum. They are alive and dynamic- always changing. My friend was afraid that many Egyptians Muslims may not actually truly represent Islam. But I believe that the followers of any religion are the truest representatives of it. Of course, in every religion you have nominalism- people who are believers "in name only". (Case in point: America. Most Egyptians believe that America is a Christian country. I would disagree). But in spite of this, the most insight into any religion is to be gained by observing and interacting with its followers. This is why I’m here.
Finally, even after living in Cairo for three years, I still find myself retreating into my apartment from time to time. Sometimes the craziness or the heat get a little too unbearable! During these times it’s good to have other resources to keep your Arabic going (assuming you’ve ran out of homework to do). Besides a few basic books (I found some good ones on Egyptian colloquial at Barnes and Noble in the states) and a dictionary (preferably one containing both Arabic-English and English-Arabic), I have found some Arabic learning software helpful as a way to supplement and reinforce my classroom and street learning. You can check some of this out at www.egyptianarabic.com and www.learn-arabic-now.com. And if all else fails, you can always watch Egyptian soap operas to freshen up on your colloquial- sometimes they even have English sub-titles!
Had I studied Arabic at a school in the states, I would have learned only Classical Arabic, and in a very artificial setting. I wanted to be able to speak, read, and feel Arabic- as much as humanly possible considering that I am basically a backwoods redneck hick from the heart of Georgia... So a couple of years ago, I moved my family here to Egypt. Of course, everyone said it was impractical. If I was studying Arabic for diplomatic purposes, then it would make perfect sense, but for the purpose of expanding my mind, exploring a new culture and language, and learning how to understand and dialogue with members of one of the largest religions on the earth? Where’s the money in that?
I’ll be the first to admit I’m an idealist, but honestly, I can think of few things more practical in our day and time. Current events in the Middle East demand a response from us isolated and introspective westerners. We simply can’t ignore this region any longer. We must engage- and seek to understand this fascinating culture and its people who have so much to offer. More often than not, violence and hatred are bred by ignorance and misinformation (perpetuated, unfortunately, by both eastern and western media outlets), but we no longer have this excuse. We have other options than CNN and al Jazeera. For one thing, there are a lot of blogs out there to read- like mine! Let’s stop sucking down the propaganda like its candy and try to find some answers ourselves. Sadly, there are precious few westerners who really take the time and effort to understand this region and its people. (There are some encouraging signs, however, as Arabic programs are multiplying in American institutions of higher learning. I read an article the other day highlighting this fact at http://www.fcnp.com/620/language2.htm This is one of the few positive results of 9/11).
The few public figures who have invested time and resources in this part of the world have seen some fantastic returns. Bill Gates comes to mind. As does former US president Jimmy Carter (from the great state of Georgia!). People here love Jimmy Carter, because he took an interest in this region and its people. Every time I mention his name to a taxi driver, I get an instant smile. Usually the response is, "He was the best president America has ever had!" Admittedly, Carter’s political persuasions help him in this respect, but the point is that he was engaged. He was very active in the peace process in the Middle East, and contributed personally to it. Remember Camp David? Finally, I do think most Egyptians respond more to his southern charm and hospitality than to his political beliefs. He’s a people person. As a southerner here, I can testify that my relational skills and as well as my ability to sit talking to people for hours on end have helped me immensely in Egypt.
Unlike many westerners I meet here, I have no interest in politics or diplomacy. While I think it’s necessary to understand these processes as much as possible, I don’t have much trust- or hope- in them. Far from it. I hate politics, and I would rather not sell my soul, thank you. (Don’t get me wrong- I know that politics for the most part are a necessary evil, and at least they preserve a modicum of illusory stability). Rather, the religion and culture have drawn me here. As I mentioned before, I studied Religion and Philosophy at my undergrad, Berry College. By the way, this is in northwest Georgia and happens to have the largest campus in the world. Check it out at http://www.berry.edu. My degree included a course on Islam, in which we read the Qu’ran and a couple of other books, but the class wasn’t even taught by a Muslim. The professor was actually Baha’i!
Honestly, I believe that living here among Muslims for a year or more is better than enrolling in any program in the states. Maybe it’s not as academic, or scholarly- I don’t care. I’m not after degrees or recognition. I want knowledge and understanding. I can figure out what to do with it later. A few weeks ago, I met a professor at Cairo University. In the course of our conversation, I told him my reasons for coming to Egypt: to learn about the religion and culture. "Well, don’t try to learn about Islam from the people," he warned. "You’re better off sticking to books." I disagree. Books are great as a resource. As are courses, software, etc. But in the end they are just tools. You have to get out there and meet people. Religion and culture don’t exist in a vacuum. They are alive and dynamic- always changing. My friend was afraid that many Egyptians Muslims may not actually truly represent Islam. But I believe that the followers of any religion are the truest representatives of it. Of course, in every religion you have nominalism- people who are believers "in name only". (Case in point: America. Most Egyptians believe that America is a Christian country. I would disagree). But in spite of this, the most insight into any religion is to be gained by observing and interacting with its followers. This is why I’m here.
Monday, July 24, 2006
A few years ago I came to the conclusion that I wanted to learn Arabic. I had majored in World Religions and Philosophy, but I felt this gave me a very superficial understanding of the major world religions, especially Islam. So I decided I wanted to understand this religion better, a religion that has over a billion followers. It quickly became apparent to me that a good knowledge of Arabic was a necessary prerequisite to any real study of Islamic religion and culture, and after asking around, it seemed obvious that Egypt was the best place in the world to learn this language. Everyone talked about how friendly Egyptians are, and how their culture is fascinating, ancient and colorful. Also, Egypt is in many ways the intellectual and cultural hub of the Arabic world. After all, Muslims from all over the world come to study their faith at Al Azhar University in Old Cairo, and Egyptian Arabic has become widely understood throughout the entire Middle East thanks to many famous Egyptian films and songs. Of course, everyone in America knows about Omar Sherif, and many have heard of Om Khalsoum. But the list goes on: What about Adel Imam, the famous actor? Or the current popular musicians: Amr Diab, Mohamad Mounir, and Shaaban Abd il Rahim?
What better place to study Arabic? Much better than studying in some exorbitantly-priced, sterile institution in the states. I recently checked out the renowned Middlebury program in Vermont, http://www.middlebury.edu/academics/ls/dates_fees/, and a nine-week program there is $7,700! Of course, this is an immersion program, and the people I know who have gone there speak very highly about it and seem to have a good handle on FusHa (classical Arabic), but I’m gonna let you on a little secret: Cairo is MUCH cheaper! And MUCH more of a learning experience! And MUCH more fun! Also, the experiences you glean here would look very good on a resume, if you chose at a later date to continue your Arabic/ Middle Eastern studies, or to look for a job. OK, I must admit that I’m a cheapskate, but let’s just look at the figures:
Let’s just say that you’re a single American male and you wanted to learn Arabic in Egypt for an entire year. We’ll do the math together: Round-trip ticket ($1000); a modest, furnished flat in the neighborhood of your choice (at most, $2,500 for the year, including all bills); food (of course, this can vary based on how much you eat, and how much you eat at western restaurants, but you can eat well on $100 a month- one of my single female friends here just told me she spends about $50 a month on food). So, that brings us to $4,700 for a year. If you want to stay low-budget at this point, you’d better stay away from AUC- unless you qualify for a scholarship. (If you do have money to spend, however, and you want to go really intensive, AUC may be just the place for you. Even if it is expensive, at least you still get the cultural benefits of living here in Cairo!). But then you have lots of other options in Cairo. One is to look for a language helper. This can be any friend who doesn’t speak a lot of English, but someone you trust, and with whom you actually enjoy spending time. Hopefully this person enunciates clearly and has a lot of patience as well! In my case, I met someone with whom I immediately clicked with and trusted. This person understood virtually no English, but had a lot of patience and persistence-and he loved to talk. After I met with him a few times, we set up lessons (basically just conversation) where he would come over once a week (anywhere from 4-6 hours each), and I would pay him about 10 LE ($2) an hour. Financially, this was great for me and great for him, and even though I got lots of warnings from other friends, the money never got in the way of the friendship. So, back to our budget: If you had a language helper for 5 hours a week at 10 LE/ hour, this would be about 2500 LE in a year, or around $400, bringing us to $5,100.
As far as formal classes in Cairo go, there are some amazing diamonds in the rough. I found a place that I really loved, and ended up taking over a year’s worth of classes from them. The place is called "Kalimat Language and Cultural Center," http://www.kalimategypt.com, and is located in Mohandisseen near Midan Mustafa Mahmoud. Kalimat has a colloquial Egyptian program as well as a FusHa program. I took both (at different times), and enjoyed them immensely. In my opinion, their FusHa program is the best, although both programs are good. My advice: if you want to come to Egypt to study, take colloquial Egyptian first, for several months, before even touching FusHa. (If you want more advice on learning Egyptian Arabic as well as FusHa, check out AUC’s Dr. David Wilmsen’s comments at this address: http://www.egyptianarabic.com/institutions/wilmsen.asp. Here he talks about the 5 most important things Arabic learners should remember). Ultimately, the decision to study colloquial and classical concurrently or one-at-a-time depends on how good you are with languages and how much time you have to study. I am married with small children, and trust me, one new language at a time is enough for me. The differences between colloquial and FusHa are substantial enough to make it extremely difficult to learn them both well at the same time. At Kalimat I met several students, many very bright and from schools like Harvard, Cambridge, etc. but very few excelled at learning both languages at the same time. Of course, many simply had no desire to learn Egyptian colloquial and focused solely on FusHa. But in my view, this is a mistake. Very few Egyptians can really speak FusHa, but all Egyptians speak colloquial, and the best resource for learning any language is PEOPLE! This is definitely true in this country where everyone is friendly and eager to help you. Further, most Muslims count it a privilege to help foreigners to understand the Arabic language, which is so inextricably intertwined with their faith. OK, back to the budget...
Kalimat’s intensive courses meet four days a week (Mon-Thurs) and run for a month. There are 12 levels in both colloquial and FusHa. FusHa meets from 9:00 AM until noon each day, making the course 48 hours total. The price is 1590 LE. Colloquial Egyptian meets each of these days from 1:20-3:20 PM, making the course 32 hours total. The price for this is 1060 LE. There are a variety of summer options available, ranging from very intensive (Sunday-Thursday, 9-12, including lots of homework), to evening classes which meet two nights a week for two hours. Personally, I think summer in Cairo is a time to chill like the locals do- if you can find A/C! So as far as budget goes, if you followed my advice (arriving in the early fall), you would take three months of colloquial, then six months of FusHa, and then maybe some light classes in the summer. This would total around $2,500, and would bring your yearly total to $7,600. Finally, let’s just say that other fees (like your visa stamp, tips, etc.) came to $100 for the year, for a total of $7,700. So, financially speaking, an entire year in Cairo would equal the nine-week immersion session at Middlebury! (By the way, several of my "thriftier" friends here have informed me that the above figures are actually quite high...).
If you bring some extra money, Kalimat also organizes and leads some great outings (to places like the White Desert or Bahariyya Oasis) at reasonable prices. And in Egypt, whenever you can get someone else to arrange a trip for you at a fair price, you should do it! Finally, I want to put in a final plug for Kalimat. The teachers there are really excellent and several are of the same caliber as those at Middlebury. Some have even been offered positions at Middlebury or other schools in the states and in Canada. A couple teachers have around 30 years of experience and they all really love what they’re doing. If you do go there, try to get into Rif’at’s class or Mohamad Bakry’s. After taking about twelve months of their FusHa program, I ended up close to the same level as some students who had studied FusHa at Cambridge and Oxford for several years. And when I arrived at Kalimat, I knew nothing as far as FusHa is concerned, except some things that overlapped from colloquial.
What better place to study Arabic? Much better than studying in some exorbitantly-priced, sterile institution in the states. I recently checked out the renowned Middlebury program in Vermont, http://www.middlebury.edu/academics/ls/dates_fees/, and a nine-week program there is $7,700! Of course, this is an immersion program, and the people I know who have gone there speak very highly about it and seem to have a good handle on FusHa (classical Arabic), but I’m gonna let you on a little secret: Cairo is MUCH cheaper! And MUCH more of a learning experience! And MUCH more fun! Also, the experiences you glean here would look very good on a resume, if you chose at a later date to continue your Arabic/ Middle Eastern studies, or to look for a job. OK, I must admit that I’m a cheapskate, but let’s just look at the figures:
Let’s just say that you’re a single American male and you wanted to learn Arabic in Egypt for an entire year. We’ll do the math together: Round-trip ticket ($1000); a modest, furnished flat in the neighborhood of your choice (at most, $2,500 for the year, including all bills); food (of course, this can vary based on how much you eat, and how much you eat at western restaurants, but you can eat well on $100 a month- one of my single female friends here just told me she spends about $50 a month on food). So, that brings us to $4,700 for a year. If you want to stay low-budget at this point, you’d better stay away from AUC- unless you qualify for a scholarship. (If you do have money to spend, however, and you want to go really intensive, AUC may be just the place for you. Even if it is expensive, at least you still get the cultural benefits of living here in Cairo!). But then you have lots of other options in Cairo. One is to look for a language helper. This can be any friend who doesn’t speak a lot of English, but someone you trust, and with whom you actually enjoy spending time. Hopefully this person enunciates clearly and has a lot of patience as well! In my case, I met someone with whom I immediately clicked with and trusted. This person understood virtually no English, but had a lot of patience and persistence-and he loved to talk. After I met with him a few times, we set up lessons (basically just conversation) where he would come over once a week (anywhere from 4-6 hours each), and I would pay him about 10 LE ($2) an hour. Financially, this was great for me and great for him, and even though I got lots of warnings from other friends, the money never got in the way of the friendship. So, back to our budget: If you had a language helper for 5 hours a week at 10 LE/ hour, this would be about 2500 LE in a year, or around $400, bringing us to $5,100.
As far as formal classes in Cairo go, there are some amazing diamonds in the rough. I found a place that I really loved, and ended up taking over a year’s worth of classes from them. The place is called "Kalimat Language and Cultural Center," http://www.kalimategypt.com, and is located in Mohandisseen near Midan Mustafa Mahmoud. Kalimat has a colloquial Egyptian program as well as a FusHa program. I took both (at different times), and enjoyed them immensely. In my opinion, their FusHa program is the best, although both programs are good. My advice: if you want to come to Egypt to study, take colloquial Egyptian first, for several months, before even touching FusHa. (If you want more advice on learning Egyptian Arabic as well as FusHa, check out AUC’s Dr. David Wilmsen’s comments at this address: http://www.egyptianarabic.com/institutions/wilmsen.asp. Here he talks about the 5 most important things Arabic learners should remember). Ultimately, the decision to study colloquial and classical concurrently or one-at-a-time depends on how good you are with languages and how much time you have to study. I am married with small children, and trust me, one new language at a time is enough for me. The differences between colloquial and FusHa are substantial enough to make it extremely difficult to learn them both well at the same time. At Kalimat I met several students, many very bright and from schools like Harvard, Cambridge, etc. but very few excelled at learning both languages at the same time. Of course, many simply had no desire to learn Egyptian colloquial and focused solely on FusHa. But in my view, this is a mistake. Very few Egyptians can really speak FusHa, but all Egyptians speak colloquial, and the best resource for learning any language is PEOPLE! This is definitely true in this country where everyone is friendly and eager to help you. Further, most Muslims count it a privilege to help foreigners to understand the Arabic language, which is so inextricably intertwined with their faith. OK, back to the budget...
Kalimat’s intensive courses meet four days a week (Mon-Thurs) and run for a month. There are 12 levels in both colloquial and FusHa. FusHa meets from 9:00 AM until noon each day, making the course 48 hours total. The price is 1590 LE. Colloquial Egyptian meets each of these days from 1:20-3:20 PM, making the course 32 hours total. The price for this is 1060 LE. There are a variety of summer options available, ranging from very intensive (Sunday-Thursday, 9-12, including lots of homework), to evening classes which meet two nights a week for two hours. Personally, I think summer in Cairo is a time to chill like the locals do- if you can find A/C! So as far as budget goes, if you followed my advice (arriving in the early fall), you would take three months of colloquial, then six months of FusHa, and then maybe some light classes in the summer. This would total around $2,500, and would bring your yearly total to $7,600. Finally, let’s just say that other fees (like your visa stamp, tips, etc.) came to $100 for the year, for a total of $7,700. So, financially speaking, an entire year in Cairo would equal the nine-week immersion session at Middlebury! (By the way, several of my "thriftier" friends here have informed me that the above figures are actually quite high...).
If you bring some extra money, Kalimat also organizes and leads some great outings (to places like the White Desert or Bahariyya Oasis) at reasonable prices. And in Egypt, whenever you can get someone else to arrange a trip for you at a fair price, you should do it! Finally, I want to put in a final plug for Kalimat. The teachers there are really excellent and several are of the same caliber as those at Middlebury. Some have even been offered positions at Middlebury or other schools in the states and in Canada. A couple teachers have around 30 years of experience and they all really love what they’re doing. If you do go there, try to get into Rif’at’s class or Mohamad Bakry’s. After taking about twelve months of their FusHa program, I ended up close to the same level as some students who had studied FusHa at Cambridge and Oxford for several years. And when I arrived at Kalimat, I knew nothing as far as FusHa is concerned, except some things that overlapped from colloquial.
